Robert Stone
Robert Stone
Revenge against the liver
Oh… my body hates me again. Or more like my brain takes official walkabouts because it’s made a revenge pact against my liver. Whose dingbat idea was it to go for drinking and jumping about anyway? Stolly’s, then Cha Cha’s, then Firemen, then Tambour, where Y almost got in a fight! The skin around my eyes is puffy and I’m almost done drinking a liter of unsweetened grapefruit juice. Thank goodness Lor made a great lunch otherwise I’d still be moaning and tossing about lethargically in bed, complaining about geopolitics and politician’s hairdos.
Last night makes it almost 9 nights in a row I’ve willingly submitted myself to this bodily outrage. If only detox came in a bottle.
A big bowl of ketchup, and hold the chutney/coulis
There’s a restaurant I frequent where the food is pretty decent and inventive. Their duo brunch options, terre and mer, are both very prettily laid out, while their poached eggs are almost perfect (marks off for insufficiently drippy yolk). However, in yet another episode of foodies fucking it up, I was flustered by their great ketchup dilemma. For you see, they serve something that looks and tastes remarkably like ketchup, but refuse to call it so. Somehow, in the mess of things, ketchup became chutney, then coulis.
Here are the definitions for you. Chutney is an anglicisation of a Hindi word for a type of condiment usually consisting of fruits or vegetables crushed together with spices and seasonings. It does not need to contain vinegar, and does not need to be thick nor smooth in texture. Ketchup, in its current incarnation, is a smooth paste made from tomatoes, vinegar, onions, and seasonings. Ketchup, however, used to be a word you could apply to any slightly spicy sauce with a vinegar base.
There was a time when ketchup was exotic, a term borrowed from the sailors in their travels across the British Empire. The image of spices and strange sauces made from chillies and fish sauce sent strange perfumes in the air from tropical lands. Kechap is a Malaysian word for a kind of hot sauce.
These days, we are probably more familiar with the North Americanisation of the word. Ketchup, thanks to Heinz, is red, thick, more sweet than sour, and great with french fries.
Which brings me back to Urbane, the restaurant that was giving me definition indigestion regarding their reddish sauce made from tomatoes. My eating partner was keen to say it was a chutney. However, I know the difference between chutney and ketchup and the texture was most certainly closer to ketchup than chutney. As was the taste. When I asked the waitress whether the red sauce on my plate was ketchup, she not only felt the need to label the unfortunate sauce chutney, but to define (incorrectly !) what chutney was.
“It’s a sauce made from chopped fruit, slightly bitter.”
Chopped fruit, yes. Bitter, no.
Now, many explanation present themselves for this error but my bad temper is inclined to think that the ketchup just isn’t pretentious enough for the aspirations of this restaurant. From their onsite DJ to their amuse-bouches, the chefs are certainly not aware of what’s considered hip to have in a restaurant. This is a mistake.
Of course we want our food refined but what exactly is that? Sophistication is not necessarily more pearls and gold, or the liberal usage of truffles, nor the bandying around of foodie terms. These ornamentations are as arrivistes-advertising as an overtanned cougar toting five handbags out of the Versace store. Being refined is less but the best, is a healthy dose of spartan sensibility, paying attention to details, and not ever calling ketchup chutney in the mistaken idea that one term is too pedestrian for fine dining. For heaven’s sakes, even Heston Blumenthal makes ketchup !
The day after
Just starting to sober up. Realize that last night might have been the party of the year… so far! What madness. Royal Monceau Demolition Party… fun! Will write more about it later… right now, more water, ciggies and books.Hey Turkey, karma's a bitch
Tonight’s semi-final between Germany and Turkey was interrupted three times. Power failures in Vienna interrupted world-wide signal distribution of the game. During the second interruption, the Germans managed to score, putting them one goal up. Luckily the signal held out long enough for us to watch Turkey equalize, and then Germany take them out for a late goal. Instead of goal, I wanted to yell RRRRRRRRIIIIIOOOOTTTT!
Art critics at the games

* Like their English counterparts, the French often bastardize our language. I, however, much adore their typo. It lends an air of desperation to these two comic geniuses.
______________________
So it’s the day after, the day here we’re all supposed to feel rather glum and wilted after dousing our sorrow last night after the game. Except I’m feeling quite well, thank you very much.
For one thing, I barely watched the game since I was barraged by all the work that happens behind a sportscast. Surrounded by those who did watch the game, I saw first hand the anxiety, then the anguish, and finally the resignation that marked last night’s audience. It left me apathetic. For you see, as I am quickly learning, working in sports rearranges the molecules in your brain.
Well, in rather a more benign fashion than any drug, working in sports dulls oneself to the intense drama of most sporting events. And sporting events, with their cast of branded names, their own storyline and storied rivalries, are theatrical. The lights are on, the setting is clear, and now the actors must prove their mettle to decide clear villains and heroes.
But subjecting oneself to drama, night after night, day after day, like seeing JR get killed on a daily basis, dilutes the importance of these great moments.
Mind you, there’s nothing surprising about the outcome. For anyone minorly acquainted with international football, the French team’s sluggish game against Romania was a harbinger of woeful things to come. France’s Euro drama died in that somnolent parade. So, before last night’s grudge match, pitting the World Cup finalists head to head, most of the football cognescenti were already proclaiming their distaste for the team.
Which brings me to my final meandering thought. What is the drama of sports if it is not the improbable win? For the Greeks, the Gods were tricksters, willful and capricious. They were capable of turning great men into fools. The source of Western drama has not changed. If we continue to watch sport, it is to see the underdog, the little men, come out tops.
However, France and Italy are two aged teams, two recent in their successes to fit the bill. France’s team never stepped up to the stage, and their drama was ill-written, to say the least. Domenench willingly played the fool to a comedy nobody wanted to watch. Nothing to lose. Wrong. No one at home, is more like it. Bleeeeeuuuuugghhh.

